About Marlborough

A short history of Marlborough - gateway to the South Island 

Early Maori remains were found on the Wairau Bar, in Cloudy Bay: these people were nick-named the Moa Hunters because of moa bones and eggs found at their burial sites. (For those of you unaware of New Zealand pre-history, this was a land without mammals, where birds filled the eco-system. The large Moa bird produced the biggest egg of all bird species; Moa were flightless and probably roamed the countryside much like grazing animals elsewhere in the world. Huge birds of prey evolved to live on the Moa and other bird species but the arrival of humans and the animals they brought with them, led of mass extinctions. The nocturnal kiwi, an emblem of New Zealand, is one of a number of native birds which have made it through to today).

The first Europeans in the region initially based themselves at the mouth of the Wairau River in Cloudy Bay, close to the early Maori villages. However the earthquakes of 1848 and 1855 helped transform the shallow Opawa River into a navigable waterway. Wharfs soon sprang up some 20km up river at the tidal limit. This place came to be called The Beaver, (or Beavertown to some). The name traces back to a flood which trapped early European surveyors for several weeks – some wag in Wellington remarked that the survey party had been forced to “roost in their bunks like a lot of beavers in a dam”, and the name stuck.

The first New Zealand Land War happened in Marlborough, as a result of European expansion clashing with local land ownership. The New Zealand Company had sold land in neighbouring Nelson, to prospective settlers in England, only to find that there was insufficient good quality land to be had. Searching for alternative land before the settlers arrived, the company sent surveyors into the Wairau plains, without first reaching agreement with Maori chiefs. Whilst the paramount chief Te Rauparaha would probably have agreed to a sale if the price was right, the New Zealand Company tried to force the issue without completing the purchase. Te Rauparaha quite rightly escorted any surveyors off his land, letting them take all their possessions but not items they had made from the wood of trees on his land.  This action merely inflamed the New Zealand Company further. After Te Rauparaha burned the wood used by the surveyors for their hut frames and their survey rods, the New Zealand Company arranged for an arrest warrant on the charge of arson. The arresting party met Te Rauparaha and around 40 warriors and matters deteriorated quickly, with a musket going off possibly by accident. At the end 28 Europeans and some 6 Maori were dead. Many of the Europeans were killed after they had surrendered in an act that was seen as a massacre by most settlers at the time, but was perfectly consistent with local customs and the Maori principle of “utu”.

The small settlement at The Beaver shortly became the town (now City) of Blenheim. It operated as a port of many years, although now Marlborough’s River Queen is the last surveyed commercial vessel to ply the Opawa River.

Aside from The River Queen though, there are many interesting things about Marlborough today. Read on…

Marlborough today

Sunshine

Marlborough is the sunshine capital of New Zealand. This region and its close neighbour Nelson, regularly record the highest number of sunshine hours in the country. Indeed, one Maori term for the area means “the sun always finds a hole to shine through at the Wairau”.

World class wines

Marlborough is also New Zealand’s largest wine growing and producing region. Once the top of the South Island was renowned as the pip-fruit capital of the country but now vineyards reign supreme in Marlborough. The sunshine, the soil and the reliable drying wind, all combine to make this an excellent region for wine.

 Many different grape varieties grow well here, although the region has achieved world fame with its distinctive Sauvignon Blanc.

Many wineries have cellar doors open to the public for free (or nearly free) wine-tastings. You can tour the wineries by bike or drive around yourself – although joining one of the Wine Tours will mean you don’t have to worry about drinking, then driving. Helen and Wendy at www.naclachan.co.nz/winetours run great wine tours: they are knowledgeable since they grow their own grapes, and they will do their best to take you to the wineries you want to see. Others I could recommend include Bubbly Grape and Highlight Tours.

Marlborough Sounds

The awe and beauty of the Marlborough Sounds is rightly world famous. The Marlborough Sounds are flooded river valleys, where the deep green of the largely forested slopes contrast with the various shades of blue from the ocean.

Many companies run tours and cruises around the Marlborough Sounds. We’ve tried the Beachcomber Cruises and know…

The Sounds are sparsely populated but small villages and luxury retreats can be found nestling into hillsides in hidden bays. A beautiful place to rest and relax. One particular place we’ve been to is Lochmara Lodge; this is certainly worth a visit if you’re in the area. Check out www.lochmaralodge.co.nz

Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre www.omaka.org.nz

Rightly another key feature of Marlborough’s tourism scene. This is more than a museum, with exhibits set up to create life-like scenes aimed to give you a better idea of what things were like when these ancient planes ruled the air. Jane runs the Centre and it is certainly worth a visit.

Marlborough Museum and Brayshaw Heritage Park www.marlboroughmuseum.org.nz  

Just 5 km from the town centre, take a stroll around the heritage park or go to the museum and learn more about the history of the area. The small riverside railway runs from Brayshaw Park to The River Queen, alongside the Taylor River.

The Vines Village www.thevinesvillage.co.nz

This is a collection of local boutique businesses – from the Quilter’s Barn to the Olive Shop, you’ll find a real taste of Marlborough.

Chocolate Factory www.makana.co.nz

Gorgeous hand-made chocolate. Nothing else to say really.

Kaikoura

About 1.5 hours down the road towards Christchurch, Kaikoura is a seaside town most well-known for whale watching trips. There are also seal colonies close to the roadside.

Places to eat out around Blenheim – just a sample of the many options

Raupo

2 minutes walk around the riverbank from our mooring at Beaver Station Wharf, is a delightful eatery called Raupo, run by Helen and Marcel.

Clubs of Marlborough

Also just along the riverbank from us, but maybe 10 minutes walk, the impressive new Clubs of Marlborough building houses two dining options. If your budget is tight, there are few places with better value for money and if you’ve more to spend, then try the Taylor Restaurant for more of a treat.

Accent Restaurant

Brand new and in the centre of town. Merv and Helen are good friends and Merv cooks lovely food.

Gibbs restaurant in the vineyard

Out of town there is a fabulous place called Gibbs. This is a small restaurant about 10 minutes drive from Blenheim, surrounded by vineyards. It is run by Chris and Heidi Gibb, who ensure the welcome is every bit as good as the food.

Places to stay around Blenheim – again, just a sample

Boutique

Radfield House

Old St Mary’s Convent

Pepper Tree

Hotels

Hotel D’Urville

Heartland Hotel

Chateau Marlborough

Motels and motor camps

Grove Park Motor Lodge

Bella Vista

Blenheim Top 10 Motor Camp